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Published at Tuesday, November 27th 2018. by in Ceiling.

The ceiling we're going to put up is from Armstrong ceilings, Woodhaven collection, it's actually a floating system with metal mounting tracks that attach to ceiling joists and planks that are held in place with specially designed clips. The first step is to cut the caulking on the edges and joints of the existing crown molding so that it can be removed. The molding will be reinstalled later with the molding off. We use a stud sensor to find the ceiling joist and strike chalk lines to mark their location. Next, we strike lines perpendicular to the joists at 18, inch intervals to indicate where the tracks will be located. Also, we remove the trim rings on the recessed lights and take down any hanging fixtures. Well, we finished preparing the room we've taken down the crown molding mark the location of the ceiling joist and remove the light fixtures. So now we can begin installing the new ceiling system, we'll begin by mounting the track.

The first track is positioned, two inches from the starting wall. With the end of the track against the perpendicular wall. The track is attached to each ceiling joist with screws. Now I found it faster and easier to overlap the sections of track relevant measure and cut them. 1/8 inch gap should be left between the overlap tracks to provide space for the mounting clips. If it is necessary or preferable to cut the track, it can be done easily with a hacksaw or a jigsaw fitted with a metal cutting blade. The two sections are butted, together with both ends being screwed into a joist track. Installation goes quite quickly with the last track being positioned, 2 inches from the finishing wall. Now it's important that the track system be flat. A four-foot level is used to locate spots where the track is bowing upward toward the ceiling in those spots. The mounting screw is loosened and the track pulled downward shims are inserted in the space between the track and the ceiling and the screws retightened.

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Finally, the tracks are checked again for flatness. When we're finished, the entire ceiling is ready to receive the planks. The planks are interlocking with the tongue of one fitting into the groove of the next to be sure to open the plank cartons, two or three days prior to installation, to allow the material to adjust to the relative humidity in the room where it will be installed. Determine the width of the border planks. Now you can find formulas for doing this on Armstrong ceilings. Woodhaven web page cut the starter plank to width by removing the tongue side using a table saw or a circular saw the place. The cut side of the starter plank toward the wall, leaving a 1/2 inch gap for expansion, leave 3/4 of an inch gap between the end of the plank and the perpendicular wall. The starter plank is held in place by drilling a small hole near the edge at the point where the plank crosses a track, then a screw is driven through both the plank and the track and into the joist. This will be covered when the crown molding is reinstalled.

These clips are designed to hold the groove side of each plank to the track they snap on and are then slid along the track until the tab slips into the planking group. I found it easier to snap on several clips beforehand. Set the plank in position then simply slide the clips along the track until they engage the plank. The ends of each plank also have an interlocking tongue and groove design. The last plank in each row will need to be cut to length. This can be done. Using a power miter saw, circular saw or even a handsome remember to leave a 3/4 inch expansion gap between the end of the plank and the wall. I was pleasantly surprised at how the tongue and groove designs, along with mounting clips, allowed the installation to progress at an impressive pace. This room had several recessed lights to locate the cutouts. For these, we measured from the edge of the nearest plank to the center of the fixture then transferred those measurements to the planks to be cut. We then used a compass to draw a circle of the correct size. Another option would be to use the recessed light. Trim plate as a template, the light fixture holes can be cut using a jigsaw or a large hole saw the last plank at the finishing wall must be ripped to fit the space remaining like the first plank. This one is also held in place with a screw. Make sure there is a half inch gap remaining between the border plank and the finishing wall with the ceiling planks up, we've replaced the light, fixtures and reinstall the crown molding.

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