Published at Monday, November 26th 2018. by Cynthia Santos in Ceiling.
If you want to add dimension and character to a room, nothing beats the traditional look of a copper ceiling. Even the average di wire can create this classic old house feature. If you follow our low profile design, we installed flat boards and molding instead of assembling box beams to make working overhead a lot easier to see what you'll need to check out the tools and materials. Now, if you want to plan your design around lights and major features in the room, we centered our nine copper grid around an existing chandelier to get started measure and mark where the beams you need. The walls then use blue tape to simulate the beams to see how your design will look next use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joist mark both ends of the joist, where they meet the walls to make sure you're. Caching would use a small drill bit to drill into the ceiling. Don't worry about the holes they'll get covered up later by the beams. Now, if you don't have a helper, you can make a support called a dead man to hold up one end of the beads used, scrap lumber to make it all team three-quarters of an inch shorter than the ceiling we just use. 2X3, scrap lumber, you'll start with a perimeter beam that runs perpendicular to the joist to get a good connection cut the beam about 1/4 inch too long bring it inside, but one end into the corner. With your dead man apply adhesive to the beam tuck.
The other end of the board into the opposite corner, creating above then begin at the middle and work your way out to each side firing nails if each joist with your pneumatic nailer, don't worry about gaps between the beam and the ceiling. They'll get covered up by molding measure and cut the opposite perimeter beam and install it just the same way for the perimeter cross beams cut two boards several inches longer than the thief uses Deadman to hold a rough cut toward overlapping the main goons at each end. Mark one end where it crosses the beam mark: the back edge and connects. The two marks to create a scribe line back at the miter saw adjust the blade to match the angle of the scribe, line double-check it and then go ahead and make the cut follow. The same steps to cut each end of the crossbeams, leaving them one-eighth inch too long to make sure you get a tight, fit apply adhesive to the beam and hold one end in place with your madman put the other end in place, and if the joints are Not flat use shims to bring the surfaces of the two beams flush to hold the beam in place, fire in two nails at opposite angles. Every 12 inches then score the shim with the utility knife and snap it off now, with the perimeter installed, measure mark locations for the main beams and the cross beams snap, a chalk line with non-staining chalk along one edge of each beam scribe and cut the main Beams the same way you did for the perimeter cross beetles apply adhesive to each beam and pressure fitted in place. Using your dead man to hold one end in place, use shims to make the joints flush and nail through the beam and into the ceiling at every joist install the other main beam.
The same way, next cut inscribe the first cross peak drive, fit the piece in place and use a raptor square to make sure each corner is 90 degrees, then mark where the cross beam meets. The main leaves pop the piece out, apply, adhesive and set it back in place. Shoot a nail through each corner of the cross-link into the seal then hold your nail gun at about a 45-degree angle to the joint and the toenail through the corner of the cross beam and into the main beam. This helps hold the joints together. As the wood expands and contracts with the seasons preventing cracks once you install the cross beams measure, the interior dimensions of the first copper on your miter saw cut inside 45-degree angles on each end of your molding, but leave each piece about 1/4 inch too long. Hold each piece in place and Mark the overhanging material trim, the excess on your miter saw then dry fit the pieces in the copper, apply wood glue to each piece of molding. Now, if you have gaps between the ceiling and the beam split, the difference when you set the molding in place to hide any variation across the copper use, a pin, nailer or brad nailer to nail the molding in place, then repeat the process on all the coppers. Once you're done with the molding, apply latex caulk to finish the joints and cover any gaps, then you can apply spackle with a putty knife to the nail holes sand. These spots smooth and finally use a sash brush to paint the molding and a small roller. To finish the beams once you're finished with that you can climb down off the ladder and admire your handiwork.
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